A spring break in Fife

Like most of Scotland, the Kingdom of Fife looks at its best during the spring and summer months, making this a lovely time to visit this area. Longer daylight hours give you more time to explore, the woodlands and parks are blanketed with flowers and the seabirds are beginning to return to our coastlines after a long winter at sea.

Read on to find my top five things to do in Fife this spring/summer.

Watch the Sunrise

If you are staying in Fife, setting an alarm for sunrise is a must! My accommodation for this trip was located near the sea in Dysart, it was the perfect spot to watch the sunrise. In fact, the bedroom window faced south east so technically I could have watched the spectacle from bed but, I think you need to get outside to immerse yourself properly in the whole magical experience. That morning I was the only person around and the only sounds I could hear, as the sun gracefully rose out of the North Sea, was the rhythmical lapping of the waves and the mellifluous sound of the dawn chorus. Watching the sunrise really is the best way to start the day.

Take a boat trip to the Isle of May

Sitting at the mouth of the Firth of Forth, around 5 miles off the Fife coast, you’ll find a marvellous little basalt island called the Isle of May. Despite it’s size and remote location the isle has a rich and exciting history which features tales of Vikings, monks, smugglers and lighthouse keepers. Fascinatingly, one of the first Christian churches in Scotland was founded here in the 9th century. People no longer live on this island but up to 200,000 seabirds call this place home during the summer months including up to 90,000 puffins. These comical birds arrive in April to mate and raise their young and leave again in August to spend the next 7 months at sea. You’ll also see Kittiwake, Razorbill, Common Guillemot, European Shag, Northern Fulmar, Eurasian Oystercatcher and Common Eider. Because of the vast amount of seabirds the island has been a National Nature Reserve since the 1950’s.

There are a couple of companies that run boat trips to the Isle of May from Anstruther. We went with Anstruther Pleasure Cruises who run a 5 hour trip, which allows around 3 hours on the island. The crew are super friendly and knowledgeable and tell you all about the island and it’s wildlife. Before setting foot on the island the boat circumvented the island which gave us fantastic views of islands 45 meter cliffs and all the seabirds which call it home.

Once on the island it’s tempting to spend all your time with the puffins but I’d recommend leaving time to check out the priory, which dates back to 13th century, the Stevenson lighthouse and the foghorns which all have remarkable human history attached to them.

Hike in the Lomond Hills

The word ‘Lomond’ derives from the Welsh wordLlumon,’ meaning beacon. It’s easy to see how the Lomond hills got their name as they are the highest and most prominent feature of Fife’s landscape. The Lomond Hills are at the centre of the Lomond Hills Regional Park, this park is made of 25 square miles of beautiful moorland, lochs and farmland. The highest hill in the park is West Lomond which stands at 522 meters.

There are multiple routes up West Lomond, we took the one that started from Glen Vale so we could take in the geological features of John Knox’s Pulpit and the Bunnet Stane. There is a car park but spaces are limited and you cannot park on the verge so I would recommend getting there early or later on in the day during peak season. The track starts around 200m from the car park. It’s wide, well trodden and when we visited, lined with vibrantly yellow whin bushes. The ascent is reasonably gentle and after around a mile John Knox’s pulpit is reached. This unique sandstone feature was formed during the late Devonian period, around 410-353 million years ago, when Scotland was located close to the equator. Despite the name, the Scottish church reformer, John Knox is not known to have visited this area. However, a natural amphitheatre is located nearby where Presbyterian Covenanters held covert church services in the late 17th century.

From John Knox’s Pulpit you rejoin the path which eventually reaches the summit of West Lomond. The scenery along the way is beautiful and I imagine the landscape will look absolutely beautiful in late summer with the ground blanketed with heather. Again, the walk is reasonably easy going, it’s only the last 100 meters or so that will get the heart rate up a bit. The summit offers beautiful panoramic views over Fife. On a clear day you can see right across the Firth of Forth to the south and all the way to the mountains of the Highlands in the north.

We didn’t spend long at the summit as there was a bitter wind blowing in from the east but, on a warm day, it would be lovely to stop and have a bite of lunch. Next stop was the Bunnett Stane, it’s a very steep decent for the summit so caution is needed. The rock formation lies in a field at the foot of West Lomond. It’s a pretty remarkable rock formation, made of sandstone and formed over millions of years by ice, rain and wind. The formation kind of looks like a weird, gigantic mushroom measuring around 6m by 3m and almost a meter thick. Hidden away to the side you’ll find a man made cave, like many unusual places in Scotland there is a tragic tale of love and heartbreak attached to the Maidens Bower, which you can read about on location, however, the cave was probably dug out in the 1800’s by a landowner to be used as a bothy or store.

The circular walk was about 5 miles and took us around 2 hours and 45 minutes with breaks. It’s worth while stopping in nearby Falkland for a rest after the walk where there are multiple places for a bite to eat and it’s just a really pretty place filled with history and charm.

Explore the area’s history.

Fife is a history enthusiasts dreams. The county has multiple castles, medieval villages and harbours and tales of Kings, Queens, Vikings and Picts. In fact, this area is regarded as being the location of one of the most important Pictish Kingdoms during the begin of the middle ages, at this point in history it was known as Fib.

One of my favourite things to do is wander around the fishing villages and the meandering lanes within, looking at the dates carved onto the buildings. I think the oldest house I’ve found so far dates back to 1540 and is located in Crail but there are probably many houses dating back further.

If castles take your interest, Fife has plenty to choose from. Two ruined castles worth visiting are Ravenscraig Castle on the outskirts of Kirkcaldy and MacDuff’s Castle in Wemyss.

Ravenscraig Castle was commissioned by James II in 1460 but James died shortly after leaving his widow Queen Mary of Gueldres to continue with its construction. The castle was one of the first in Scotland to be designed to withstand artillery attack. The walls of the castle are 3.5 meters thick in places making it more like a fortress than a castle to protect its royal residents.

Today the castles offers great views across the Firth of Forth and there is a beautiful beach and woodland area nearby which is perfect for a relaxing wander.

Macduff’s Castle hasn’t aged as well as Ravenscraig and a lot of the original structure has succumbed to the elements but it is still worth a visit and has an interesting history attached to it. The castle is located on cliffs above a lovely stretch of coastline which offers lovely sea views. Directly below the castle lie a series of caves carved out by the sea 8000 years ago. These caves are considered some of the most historically important sites in Fife. Residence off the castle would have used the caves but human activity in these caves stretches 1000 years before that. Carved onto the walls are Pictish symbols which are incredibly important as most of Pictish culture has sadly been lost to the mists of time. The carvings are located in a cave known as Jonathon’s cave, which is padlock protected, but you can get a key from one of the local shops to enter. Unfortunately, the shop was shut by the time we arrived so we couldn’t enter the cave.

Photograph the wildflowers.

One of my favourite things about spring/summer is the abundance of wild flowers and Fife puts on a spectacular display. Woodlands are carpeted vibrantly with bluebells and streets and parks lined with trees full of blossom. It’s such a welcome sight after the starkness of winter. I love photographing the blooms, for me it’s like a form of mindfulness and gives me time to slow down, switch off and appreciate nature. If photography isn’t your thing just walking through areas of wild flowers can give you the same feeling.

I hope this has given some inspiration for your summer adventures. Follow me on Instagram for more Scottish adventure inspiration.

This blog is part of a paid partnership with Welcome to Fife.


Winter Adventures on the Isle of Harris.

Two weeks ago my boyfriend and I spent a few days exploring the Isle of Harris, it was an amazing few days and we got to see the island at it’s wild best which was amazing. I was invited up to Harris by Essence of Harris to photograph some of their amazing products.

The journey from Argyll is quite a long one, especially at this time of year with it getting dark around 4 so we broke the journey up by staying in a lovely wee B&B on Skye called Dunans near Flodigarry. On the Tuesday morning we sailed to Tarbert, Harris from Uig. Although the journey was very scenic I was glad to finally reach dry land as I’m not a massive fan of ferries. Actually it’s not the ferries I hate it’s the deep turbulent water. Anyone else have this fear?

We headed straight to the Essence of Harris factory once we arrived where we were given a warm welcome and a big box of products to photograph! The owners of the company, Jamie and Deenie let us stay in their lovely wee Airbnb called the Smithy, it’s such a cosy wee studio perfect for couples.

The weather wasn’t ideal (being December we didn’t expect much else) but we headed out with the products from Essence of Harris anyway towards Huisinis beach. We stopped at a wee river along the way to get some shots, nearly fell in the river but that’s all part of the fun and the shots turned out ok.

It’s quite a long drive down to Huisinis beach along a wee narrow winding road but it’s totally worth it as the views onto the beach as you approach are beautiful even on a driech day.

I was cursing the wind earlier on in the day as it kept blowing the products about however the wind here helped create my favourite shot of the entire trip. We position the candle in the grass on the dunes and I used a slow shutter speed and steady hand to capture the movement of the grass. For me it was important to capture the elements of the place and I think that’s what the company wanted as well.

The next day the weather was far too wet to be taking the products out to photograph so we headed up to Lewis and visited the Callanish stones, they were pretty incredible but I didn't take any photos due to the weather. En route to Lewis we stopped for lunch at a wee catering trailer called Taste n’ Sea located at Bowglass, I would highly recommend stopping here for some food, all the seafood is fresh and locally caught and while you’re eating you can look out to the gorgeous views of Loch Seaforth.

On the Thursday morning we woke to the most incredible sunrise so jumped straight out of bed and into the car heading for the amazing view of Loch Seaforth from Bowglass but unfortunately by the time we arrived there the vibrant sky had disappeared which was very frustrating. Still we managed to get some ‘moody’ shots of the lovely hip flasks Essence of Harris make.

On our way back we managed to catch a bit of nice light in a couple of places to create some interesting photos. It was difficult though as there was a strong bitingly cold wind which blew all the products about. It’s quite funny, when I’m ‘in the zone’ and shooting I don’t feel the elements too badly it’s when I stop it the cold hits me, usually like a brick and it certainly did that morning.

On Thursday afternoon we went to Luskentyre beach, for me this was one of the highlights of the trip. Luskentyre has been on my bucket list for many years but I guess I didn’t see it in the way I dreamed of. I don’t know about anyone else but when I think of Luskentyre I think of beautiful sunsets, sunshine and I suppose a place of tranquility but when we visited we saw the real Luskentyre. The sky was angry looking, the waves crashed violently onto the beach and the bitterly cold high winds which swept the sand along the beach at such speed it made me feel quite dizzy. Not to mention that the sand got everywhere and blinded me for a good few minutes. But even though the beach was a lot more volatile than what I wanted to experience it was incredible to see that way and it almost felt invigorating, well until the cold finally took over.

The tweed I’m wearing in the bottom photo is Essence of Harris’s tweed, its very beautiful and you can see quite clearly it’s been inspired by the natural colours of the island. More importantly for me at the time it was super cosy.

After a bracing day we decided to give ourselves a wee treat (also because we thought it was our last night on Harris, it wasn’t the weather put paid to that) and went for dinner at the North Harbour Bistro on Scalpay. Oh my goodness, the food here was absolutely incredible and the chef was a fantastic host, he cooked an incredible meal for us even although he wasn’t fully open when we turned up. This place could be considered a wee bit expensive if you are on a budget but in my opinion it’s 100% worth the extra pounds as everything about this place is delicious!

We were meant to head home on the first ferry on Friday morning but a storm was hitting and I pretty much refused to go on the ferry. Thankfully Jamie and Deenie were very accommodating and let us stay. We ended up having to stay the Saturday night too as all ferries were cancelled. The extra days were spent wave hunting and my goodness there was some incredible waves along the west coast of the island.

By Sunday the weather has thankfully calmed down and the sun came out for the first time, we weren’t leaving until the afternoon so got to spend the morning photographing the landscape basking in that beautiful, soft winter light. There was even snow on the hills.

We also headed back to Luskentyre, very briefly, just see the beach in the sunshine. I wasn’t disappointed, it looked so incredibly beautiful and the best part about this visit was getting lucky enough to photograph the beautiful white horses which live on the dunes.

I also took a few product shots, this was a lot less challenging than the previous visit!

I was gutted to leave Harris, despite the wild weather it was incredibly beautiful and had a wonderful atmosphere. Everyone was so friendly and welcoming, particularly Deenie, Jamie and all the staff at Essence of Harris. I only work with companies that I like and I really did like so much about Essence of Harris. The products smell amazing, are great quality and the packaging beautiful but what I loved the most about the company was how authentic they are and so connected to their roots on the island which I think is really refreshing and important.

Hope you enjoyed reading about our adventures and thank you for taking the time to read my blog. Just a quick tip if you are visiting the Outer Hebrides, make sure you have plenty of fuel if you are there at the weekend, all fuel stations (along with most shops) are still closed on a Sunday. This is something we never took into consideration and nearly got caught out.

Eilidh