A spring break in Fife

Eilidh Cameron May 25, 2023

Like most of Scotland, the Kingdom of Fife looks at its best during the spring and summer months, making this a lovely time to visit this area. Longer daylight hours give you more time to explore, the woodlands and parks are blanketed with flowers and the seabirds are beginning to return to our coastlines after a long winter at sea.

Read on to find my top five things to do in Fife this spring/summer.

Watch the Sunrise

If you are staying in Fife, setting an alarm for sunrise is a must! My accommodation for this trip was located near the sea in Dysart, it was the perfect spot to watch the sunrise. In fact, the bedroom window faced south east so technically I could have watched the spectacle from bed but, I think you need to get outside to immerse yourself properly in the whole magical experience. That morning I was the only person around and the only sounds I could hear, as the sun gracefully rose out of the North Sea, was the rhythmical lapping of the waves and the mellifluous sound of the dawn chorus. Watching the sunrise really is the best way to start the day.

Take a boat trip to the Isle of May

Sitting at the mouth of the Firth of Forth, around 5 miles off the Fife coast, you’ll find a marvellous little basalt island called the Isle of May. Despite it’s size and remote location the isle has a rich and exciting history which features tales of Vikings, monks, smugglers and lighthouse keepers. Fascinatingly, one of the first Christian churches in Scotland was founded here in the 9th century. People no longer live on this island but up to 200,000 seabirds call this place home during the summer months including up to 90,000 puffins. These comical birds arrive in April to mate and raise their young and leave again in August to spend the next 7 months at sea. You’ll also see Kittiwake, Razorbill, Common Guillemot, European Shag, Northern Fulmar, Eurasian Oystercatcher and Common Eider. Because of the vast amount of seabirds the island has been a National Nature Reserve since the 1950’s.

There are a couple of companies that run boat trips to the Isle of May from Anstruther. We went with Anstruther Pleasure Cruises who run a 5 hour trip, which allows around 3 hours on the island. The crew are super friendly and knowledgeable and tell you all about the island and it’s wildlife. Before setting foot on the island the boat circumvented the island which gave us fantastic views of islands 45 meter cliffs and all the seabirds which call it home.

Once on the island it’s tempting to spend all your time with the puffins but I’d recommend leaving time to check out the priory, which dates back to 13th century, the Stevenson lighthouse and the foghorns which all have remarkable human history attached to them.

Hike in the Lomond Hills

The word ‘Lomond’ derives from the Welsh word ‘Llumon,’ meaning beacon. It’s easy to see how the Lomond hills got their name as they are the highest and most prominent feature of Fife’s landscape. The Lomond Hills are at the centre of the Lomond Hills Regional Park, this park is made of 25 square miles of beautiful moorland, lochs and farmland. The highest hill in the park is West Lomond which stands at 522 meters.

There are multiple routes up West Lomond, we took the one that started from Glen Vale so we could take in the geological features of John Knox’s Pulpit and the Bunnet Stane. There is a car park but spaces are limited and you cannot park on the verge so I would recommend getting there early or later on in the day during peak season. The track starts around 200m from the car park. It’s wide, well trodden and when we visited, lined with vibrantly yellow whin bushes. The ascent is reasonably gentle and after around a mile John Knox’s pulpit is reached. This unique sandstone feature was formed during the late Devonian period, around 410-353 million years ago, when Scotland was located close to the equator. Despite the name, the Scottish church reformer, John Knox is not known to have visited this area. However, a natural amphitheatre is located nearby where Presbyterian Covenanters held covert church services in the late 17th century.

From John Knox’s Pulpit you rejoin the path which eventually reaches the summit of West Lomond. The scenery along the way is beautiful and I imagine the landscape will look absolutely beautiful in late summer with the ground blanketed with heather. Again, the walk is reasonably easy going, it’s only the last 100 meters or so that will get the heart rate up a bit. The summit offers beautiful panoramic views over Fife. On a clear day you can see right across the Firth of Forth to the south and all the way to the mountains of the Highlands in the north.

We didn’t spend long at the summit as there was a bitter wind blowing in from the east but, on a warm day, it would be lovely to stop and have a bite of lunch. Next stop was the Bunnett Stane, it’s a very steep decent for the summit so caution is needed. The rock formation lies in a field at the foot of West Lomond. It’s a pretty remarkable rock formation, made of sandstone and formed over millions of years by ice, rain and wind. The formation kind of looks like a weird, gigantic mushroom measuring around 6m by 3m and almost a meter thick. Hidden away to the side you’ll find a man made cave, like many unusual places in Scotland there is a tragic tale of love and heartbreak attached to the Maidens Bower, which you can read about on location, however, the cave was probably dug out in the 1800’s by a landowner to be used as a bothy or store.

The circular walk was about 5 miles and took us around 2 hours and 45 minutes with breaks. It’s worth while stopping in nearby Falkland for a rest after the walk where there are multiple places for a bite to eat and it’s just a really pretty place filled with history and charm.

Explore the area’s history.

Fife is a history enthusiasts dreams. The county has multiple castles, medieval villages and harbours and tales of Kings, Queens, Vikings and Picts. In fact, this area is regarded as being the location of one of the most important Pictish Kingdoms during the begin of the middle ages, at this point in history it was known as Fib.

One of my favourite things to do is wander around the fishing villages and the meandering lanes within, looking at the dates carved onto the buildings. I think the oldest house I’ve found so far dates back to 1540 and is located in Crail but there are probably many houses dating back further.

If castles take your interest, Fife has plenty to choose from. Two ruined castles worth visiting are Ravenscraig Castle on the outskirts of Kirkcaldy and MacDuff’s Castle in Wemyss.

Ravenscraig Castle was commissioned by James II in 1460 but James died shortly after leaving his widow Queen Mary of Gueldres to continue with its construction. The castle was one of the first in Scotland to be designed to withstand artillery attack. The walls of the castle are 3.5 meters thick in places making it more like a fortress than a castle to protect its royal residents.

Today the castles offers great views across the Firth of Forth and there is a beautiful beach and woodland area nearby which is perfect for a relaxing wander.

Macduff’s Castle hasn’t aged as well as Ravenscraig and a lot of the original structure has succumbed to the elements but it is still worth a visit and has an interesting history attached to it. The castle is located on cliffs above a lovely stretch of coastline which offers lovely sea views. Directly below the castle lie a series of caves carved out by the sea 8000 years ago. These caves are considered some of the most historically important sites in Fife. Residence off the castle would have used the caves but human activity in these caves stretches 1000 years before that. Carved onto the walls are Pictish symbols which are incredibly important as most of Pictish culture has sadly been lost to the mists of time. The carvings are located in a cave known as Jonathon’s cave, which is padlock protected, but you can get a key from one of the local shops to enter. Unfortunately, the shop was shut by the time we arrived so we couldn’t enter the cave.

Photograph the wildflowers.

One of my favourite things about spring/summer is the abundance of wild flowers and Fife puts on a spectacular display. Woodlands are carpeted vibrantly with bluebells and streets and parks lined with trees full of blossom. It’s such a welcome sight after the starkness of winter. I love photographing the blooms, for me it’s like a form of mindfulness and gives me time to slow down, switch off and appreciate nature. If photography isn’t your thing just walking through areas of wild flowers can give you the same feeling.

I hope this has given some inspiration for your summer adventures. Follow me on Instagram for more Scottish adventure inspiration.

This blog is part of a paid partnership with Welcome to Fife.

Welcome to Fife

Eilidh Cameron November 14, 2021

The Kingdom of Fife is full of treasures, beautiful towns like St Andrews and the East Neuk are the popular destinations but there are also many other hidden gems to explore. These include ancient volcanic plugs, forests and stunning street art. I spent three days exploring Fife this autumn. While there, I visited some of these pretty towns, stunning coastlines and picturesque upland landscapes.

Towns and Villages

I was based in Cupar, which was great as it is a nice central location for exploring the county. My accommodation was the historic Cupar Burgh Chambers. This stunning building has undergone a massive restoration project in recent years and takes centre stage at the heart of Cupar’s Georgian townscape.

On the first day of my trip I stopped in Cowdenbeath to admire the wonderful Street Art created by local artist Kerry Wilson. There are numerous paintings all along the high street on the shop shutters but it’s the large murals which are the most striking. There is a mural of a wee boy playing with his toy car and opposite this, a 30ft high painting of a local girl called Lucie. Both of these artworks are beautiful but my favourite of Kerry’s murals is located at Brunton Square. This mural depicts a young boy in a mining hat and over sized boots. This mural pays homage to Fife’s mining heritage.

A few miles from Cowdenbeath lies Lochore Meadows Country Park. During the 20th century this area of land was a coal mine but today it is Fifes most popular free outdoor attraction. The Country Park covers 1200 acres and offers a range of activities including walking, water-sports, golf, cycling, fishing and great play-parks for children. It’s a really pretty area especially during the autumn months as the colours are so vibrant and beautiful.

St Andrews is not only Fife’s most famous town but also one of the most well known towns in Scotland, and it is easy to see why. It’s located on the coast and has it’s own beach, the old streets are lined with beautiful architecture including the Gothic St Salvator’s Chapel, St Andrew’s Cathedral, St Andrews University and St Andrews Castle. Not to mention it’s also known as the ‘home of golf’ and boasts some of the best golf courses to be found in the world. On my visit I took in the views of the castle and wandered along the pier which offers lovely views out to the North Sea. This must be an incredible place to watch a sunrise.

The East Neuk of Fife has some of the most photogenic villages and harbours that I’ve seen in Scotland. The word ‘Neuk’ is the old Scots word for corner and refers to the eastern edges of the county. These quaint villages have stood here for centuries protected by the natural harbours of the coastline against the might of the North Sea. The village harbours have impressive sea walls adding extra protection during winter storms. These walls are fun to walk along during calm weather and offer great vantage points to capture photographs of the harbours and the seascape. Fishing was the backbone of these villages for hundreds of years, but sadly the industry has declined in recent years. In the past local fishermen would return to shore with nets full of herring but nowadays you are more likely to see fishermen landing shellfish on the piers. This does mean that a lot of local restaurants have wonderful fresh seafood dishes on their menus. If you would like to find out a little more about the history of fishing in Scotland you can visit the Scottish Fisheries Museum which is located in Anstruther.

If you are exploring the East Neuk it’s worthwhile taking a slight detour to the picture perfect inland village of Kilconquar just north of Elie. There is something old-worldly about this village which dates back to the 12th century. There is a loch in the village which today is a peaceful place to relax and spot wildlife but this loch has a macabre past. It is thought that ‘witches’ were drowned here during the Scottish Witch trials of the 16th and 17th centuries.

The Coastline

Fife’s coastline is really special with the afore mentioned fishing villages, sea views and stunning beaches. Fife also has Scotland’s longest continuous coastal path. The total length of the path is 117 miles and completing the entire route would be the perfect challenge for keen walkers and outdoor enthusiasts. However, if like me you enjoy something a little less challenging, exploring a couple of sections at a time is probably the way to go. The route allows you to walk from village to village and visit some stunning beaches along the way like this one at Kingsbarns.

Many of Fife’s towns and villages have their own beach, a perfect example of this is Elie. At low tide the golden sands stretch for almost a mile connecting Elie Harbour Beach to Elie Earlsferry Beach. This beach has won awards and it’s easy to see why. At the western end of the beach there are beach huts and sand dunes making it a great place for photography. The waters here are also relatively sheltered making it a popular place for water-sports.

My visit to Tentsmuir National Nature Reserve near Tayport was one of the highlights of my trip to Fife. The landscape here is incredibly diverse with its ever-changing scenery. I started my exploration of the reserve at Tayport and walked along the mudflats inhabited by a variety of seabirds. Leaving the sands I then proceeded to walk through the Heathland and into the forest. I found the woodland here to be so beautiful and even on a grey day the forest was vibrant with the autumnal foliage.

My destination was Tentsmuir Point and after a couple of miles I emerged from the forest onto the dunes and the beautiful expanses of sand. This is a popular places for common and grey seals during the breeding season as it’s a safe place for them to raise their pups. They sometimes come right up to the dunes but they are mostly found on the point itself. If you are lucky enough to see the seals it is imperative not to disturb them particularly when they have young. Females can abandon their young if the are spooked or disturbed, the chances of an abandoned baby surviving is very slim so it’s vitally important to observe their charm from a safe distance.

As I mentioned Tentsmuir National Nature Reserve has a delightfully diverse landscape. If you travel inland a wee bit you’ll find Morton Lochs, this area is alive with wildlife. This area is a patch work of woodland and lochs and is the perfect place to visit on a rainy day as you can shelter in the wildlife hides or take cover under the trees. I find watching wildlife incredible relaxing and if you do too this is definitely the place to visit. I wasn’t there more than 10 minutes until I spotted a red squirrel bouncing around between the trees. Seeing these creatures is always a real treat but also a challenge to photograph as they move so quickly. A wee bit of patience is required.

Squirrels aren’t the only mammals that you can spot in and around Morton Lochs, badgers, foxes and otters also call this place home but you might need a bit of luck to spot them. If you come early in the morning you’ve got a good chance of spotting deer prancing through the forest. There is a wide variety of bird life here too and there are a couple of hides around the loch to sit back and observe them from. If you are super lucky you might spot a Kingfisher.

Lomond Hills

On the final day of my trip the I drove inland to the Lomond hills, these hills are sometimes referred to as the Paps of Fife, and are the highest hills in the region. The two prominent peaks are East Lomond and West Lomond, which are the remnants of volcanic plugs. I decided to climb East Lomond as I’d heard the summit gave the best views of the region. The walk begins in the pretty village of Falkland. Outlander fans may recognise this place as it covered for Inverness in the first season of the series but there is so much more to this village than a location in a popular TV series. One of the best examples of French renaissance architecture in the UK is Falkland palace, this beautiful building was a favourite of Mary Queen of Scots and it is easy to see why. As well as being surrounded by beautiful gardens, it also possesses the oldest Royal tennis court in Britain, built for King James the V.

East Lomond is around 448 meters, more or less half the height of a small munro. The ascent is reasonably steep but manageable. My 71 year old Dad joined me on this trip and he climbed the hill with me so it’s a great hill to climb if you’re not super fit. The climb gives you a sense of achievement, adventure and the opportunity to view the landscape from a different perspective without being too much of a challenge in comparison to larger hills. The toughest part is probably the first half, the track climbs up through the trees and feels a little laborious however, once the tree line is cleared the views are fabulous especially in the autumn sunshine. The summit looks over the entire Kingdom of Fife, all the way to the coast.

We descended the hill and headed towards West Lomond, it’s around 3 miles to West Lomond from East Lomond but we didn’t have time to climb this hill as well so we cut down off the track and headed back to Falkland just in time for lunch.

This marked the end of a wonderful trip to Fife. I’d seen such a wonderful variety of scenery, wildlife and townscapes over the few days I was there but I feel I only scratched the surface of what this part of Scotland has to offer. I found Fife to be a really enjoyable place to visit, whether walking along the beach listening to the sea lapping against the sand or taking the time to wander around the nooks and crannies of the old fishing villages, Fife has something to offer for everyone. I can’t wait to visit this area for another trip in the new year.

Eileanan nan Gàidhlig

Eilidh Cameron September 28, 2021

From a photography perspective, the Outer Hebrides are the jewel in Scotland’s crown. Very few places in the world will rival the sight of the turquoise waves breaking against the golden sands of the island’s shoreline. But these islands are more than just a pretty face, they also have a spirit which is brought to life through their Gaelic language and culture.

I’ve always been captivated by the Gaelic language and culture but my Gaelic is limited. Both my Grandmothers grew up in Argyll and came from Gaelic speaking families but sadly the language wasn’t passed on. My maternal Grandmother was an Ileach who didn’t speak any English until she went to school. So with this in mind, when I was asked to travel to the Outer Hebrides to discover the culture and language of the islands last year I was delighted.

Part of the charm and adventure of the Outer Hebrides is the 40 mile sailing across The Minch to get there. There are several different routes you can take to the Outer Hebrides, on my trip I caught the Calmac ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway. Steòrnabhagh is the ‘capital of the Western Isles and is located on the most northerly island in the archipelago, Eilean Leòdhais (Isle of Lewis).

Gaelic is evident as soon as you step foot on the island, the street names and signs are in Gaelic and the language can be heard spoken in shops and restaurants. As I drove through Lewis I could see the Gaelic culture woven into the very bones of the island with evidence of centuries of tradition scattered all over the landscape. The remains of Blackhouses (‘taighean-dubh’ in Gaelic) can be found all over Lewis and up until the 20th century these stone buildings were the traditional homes of crofting families and their animals. Man and beast would live under the same roof to provide warmth and reduce the need for extra buildings. The houses consisted of thick dry stone walls and a thatched roof. Despite a constantly burning peat fire there were no chimneys in blackhouses and rarely windows. This may seem very primitive to people living in the 21st century but the houses were well suited to this way of life. One of the best places to visit to see blackhouses is Gearrannan Blackhouse Village at Carloway.

Blackhouses may be a thing of the past but the tradition of crofting is still alive all over the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. Crofting came about after the atrocities of the Highland Clearances and in basic terms, a croft is a small area of land used for sustainable agriculture. Vegetables will be grown on the most arable land on the croft and livestock will be farmed on the rougher land which is usually shared between several crofters from a village or township. There is a wonderful community spirit within these townships with families working beside each other for generations. Gaelic stories, poetry and songs have been passed down from forefathers and are stilled shared today at Ceilidhs. When I think of a Ceilidh I think of music and dancing but in the rural communities of the Outer Hebrides a ceilidh can refer to a gathering on a croft where stories are told. The expression ‘thig a cheilidh’ means come and visit.

Peat has warmed the homes of the islanders for thousands of years and peat cutting is still an important part of island life. If you travel through the moors of the Hebrides you’ll be sure to see stacks of peat drying out over the summer months. Once the peat is dry it will be taken back to the crofts and stacked to make a ‘cruach’ ready to fuel the fires over the winter months. Cutting peat is labour intensive, especially taking away ‘am barr fhad’ the top layer of ground. Once this is removed the softer peat can be cut into sections using a ‘tairsgear’ which is a long handled tool with a blade used for turning and cutting the peat. Like much of crofting life this is hard work but also a social event which brings the whole community together.

People have lived in the Outer Hebrides for millenniums, perhaps as far back as 8500BC. Around 5000 years ago the inhabitants of the islands erected some of the most impressive megaliths found anywhere in Britain, Calanais Standing Stones which tower to 4.8 meters. The rocks that the Calanais stones are made from are some of the oldest in the world at around 300 million years. Like many neolithic sites no one really knows why the stones were built or what occurred here but it must have been a site of real significance to the people who constructed it. There are also at least another 15 stone circles nearby.

The Gaelic language is very descriptive especially when it comes to the landscape. The Gaelic word for beach is ‘tràigh’ and this will often be followed by words such as ‘bàn,’ ‘fionn’ or ‘gheal.’ These words all mean white or fair and describe the colour of the sand. The beach in the photograph below is Uig beach, if you’ve travelled through the Hebrides you’ll have perhaps come across a couple of places named Uig. I always wondered what it meant so I did a bit of research and discovered it comes from the Old Norse word for bay.

The Gaelic language has dozens of words for hill or mountain but probably the most common of these is ‘Beinn.’ Other common words for hills are ‘Sgùrr (jagged peak), ‘Stob’ (stake) and ‘Stùc’ (pinnacle). For small, rounded hills ‘Cnoc,’ Cnap’ and ‘Meall’ are common. On Harris, which is the most mountainous of the Outer Hebrides, I climbed Beinn Losgaintir (Ben Luskentyre) which gives the most stunning views over the famous Luskentyre beach. The cloud was low the day I summited the mountain but the views between the mist were incredible. The mountain beside Beinn Losgantir is called Beinn Dubh (‘Dubh’ means black or dark) and probably gained its name due to the amount of cloud which covers the summit.

The colours of the Harris landscape are glorious and inspire Harris’s most famous export, Harris Tweed (Clò Mòr). Harris Tweed has its very own Act of Parliament which insures that every single part of the Tweed making process is undertaken on the island. The tweed is woven in the homes of the islanders using pure virgin wool dyed and spun on the crofts. The traditional art of weaving has been handed down through the generations meaning that if you buy a piece of Harris Tweed you are getting more than a beautiful piece of fabric, you are getting part of the island.

Like all islands, water (uisge in Gaelic) is at the centre of Hebridean life. The rich seas surrounding the islands produce some of the best seafood in the world and a livelihood for the island’s fishermen. The pure water of the rivers and burns are vital to the quality of the whisky (uisge beatha) and gin produced here. In recent years the water has also played a pivotal part in bringing a wave of tourism to the islands. Photographers like myself visit to photograph the coastal scenery but it also draws in a lot of water-sports enthusiasts particularly in recent years with the rise in popularity of wild swimming and paddle boarding.

Nowhere is water more widespread than in Uist with its infinite number of lochs which infiltrate the landscape. Uist is made up of 6 unique islands that are connected by causeways. Furthest north lies Berneray then running south from here you have North Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay. The landscape here is so unique and beautiful, to the east you have hills and moorland…

And to the west, at the edge of the wild Atlantic, miles upon miles of breathtaking beaches.

Any visit to Scotland’s Gaelic Islands (Eileanan nan Gàidhlig) will be memorable but learning even a little about the language and culture will just enhance your experience. To get you started here are a few basic phrases for you to practice.

Madainn mhath - Good morning
Feasgar math - Good afternoon/evening
Ciamar a tha thu an-diugh? - How are you today?
Tha mi gu math, taphadh leat! - I am well, thank you
Tha i brèagha! - It is beautiful!

SWC300 - The Road Trip for Lovers of Nature.

Eilidh Cameron September 17, 2021

Recently we travelled along the South West Coastal 300, a road trip that loops around Dumfries and Galloway and up into Ayrshire. While driving through this landscape we witnessed diverse and picturesque scenery and an abundance of wildlife. Unlike home, the hills along the SWC300 gently roll across the land but they are higher than a lot of people believe. Nestled among these hills you’ll find Scotland’s highest village, Wanlockhead. The coastline here is one of contrasts, to the east you’ll find the flat wetlands and expansive sands of the Solway. To the west, the towering cliffs of the Mull of Galloway which is Scotland’s most southerly point. The UK’s largest forest can also be found along the route. In addition to the beauty of nature you’ll also find an area steeped in captivating history and the prettiest of towns.

Our first evening was spent in Langholm, or ‘Muckle toon’ as it’s sometimes referred to locally. The River Esk is joined by Elves Water and Wauchope Water in Langholm which just adds to the charm of this pretty town. That evening we stayed at the Eskdale Hotel in the town centre. Like the rest of the people in the town, the staff were incredibly friendly and I was very impressed with the menu. There was a large selection of mains to choose from but the highlight for me was the selection of sides. I am not a fan of chips and in most places chips are your only option, where as here you could choose from chips, potatoes, salad, vegetables, rice or bread which was fantastic.

The first official stop of our trip was Gilnockie Tower which stands proudly on the banks of the River Esk. On arrival, we were met by Ian and Tom who gave us a private tour of the 16th century tower and shared all its secrets with us. The tower was the stronghold of the Clan Armstrong who were once notorious border reivers. For centuries the border reivers raided this area which at the time was often referred to as the ‘debatable lands’ because no one never really knew if they belonged to Scotland or England. The reivers had no real loyalty, Ian told us they would carry the flag of both Scotland and England and exhibit whatever flag gave them the most leverage at the time. The tower itself has been recently renovated and restored to what it would have looked like in the 16th century. Gilnockie is filled with tales of characters from centuries past but it also has an area dedicated to a figure from modern history, the one and only Neil Armstrong. The first man to walk on the moon visited the then ruined tower back in 1972 to discover the tales of his reiver ancestors while on a visit to Scotland.

Caerlaverock Wetland Centre was our next destination. This haven for wildlife is run by WWT, a conservation charity set up by Sir Peter Scott to protect wildlife and wetlands. This is the perfect place to visit if you are looking for a bit of tranquility. As we wandered along the hedgerows we were surrounded by butterflies, flowers and small birds, we even spotted a Peregrine Falcon. The reserve is home to the most northerly colony of Natterjack toads as well as larger mammals such as otters, badgers and deer. Autumn is when Caerlaverock really comes alive as almost the entire population of Svalbard barnacle geese (over 30,000 birds) begin to arrive on the Solway coast for the winter months

From the wetland centre it is possible to walk along to Caerlaverock Castle which was my favourite castle as a child. I thought it looked like a real fairytale castle thanks to the moat. Entrance to the castle is currently closed due to safety concerns with the structure but it’s still worth a visit to see the castle from the grounds. A castle has stood here for over 600 years but the structure we see today is probably quite different to the original. Over the years it was repaired and enhanced many times after regularly coming under siege particularly during the Wars of Independence.

After soaking up the sun at Caerlaverock we travelled up through the town of Dumfries and onto the delightful village of New Abbey. The romantically named Sweetheart Abbey can be found in the heart of the village. The abbey was commissioned by Lady Devorgilla in 1273 in memory of her late husband. The story goes that after her husband passed she had his heart embalmed so she could keep it with her at all times. Then, upon her own death she was buried beside her husband still clutching his heart. The monks of the Abbey named the Abbey ‘Sweetheart Abbey’ in her memory. I sadly never managed to visit or photograph the Abbey as it is currently covered in scaffolding due to restoration work.

Before travelling to our accommodation for the evening we look a wander along the beach at Powillimount and onto Southerness where you’ll find the second oldest lighthouse in Scotland. This peaceful coastline offers long walks along expansive beaches with lovely views over the Solway and across to the Lake District.

That evening we were treated to a stay at the award winning Cavens Country House which is run by husband and wife, Angus and Jane Fordyce. The beautiful house dates back to 1792 and is surrounded by a 6 acre garden. The garden is absolutely stunning and has a very ‘Secret Garden’ aura about it. On arrival Angus greeted us warmly and showed us around the house. He told us that he wants guests to have a relaxed stay and feel at home while experiencing the finery the house has to offer.

Cavens offers an exceptional dining experience as Angus has trained with some of the best chefs. We started our dinner with a free range duck dish. This was followed by Sea bass which had been caught just along the coast. We both agreed that this locally caught Sea bass had an exquisite flavour. For dessert I had a blueberry tart and Simon had a selection of cheeses purchased from the Loch Arthur Farmshop which is located nearby. Their ethos for food is all about ‘top quality ingredients and tasty, unpretentious dishes.’

Day 2 started with a visit to Threave Gardens which is managed by the National Trust for Scotland. The gardens are beautifully landscaped with an abundance of colour throughout the seasons. Within the gardens we wandered through many different styles of smaller gardens including walled gardens, rockeries, fruit and vegetable patches and an oriental garden. There are also woodland walks and a large estate house which can be visited. The wider estate is home to a variety of wildlife including birds of all shapes and sizes, bats, deer, otters and red squirrels which we were lucky enough to spot. I also managed to photograph my first ever woodpecker.

Bladnoch Distillery was our next destination, this is the most Southerly distillery in Scotland. We were given a guided tour by the lovely Helen who told us the extensive history of Bladnoch which dates back over 200 years. She told us the water for the distillery comes from the nearby River Bladnoch and the malt from British growers, this all contributes to the flavour of the whisky. I’d never been on a distillery tour before and didn’t really understand the process of making whisky so learning about the process was really interesting. After the tour we were given a whisky tasting, I was driving so couldn’t partake in this part but Simon thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Helen very kindly bottled up my tasting samples so I could enjoy them at home. After the tour and tasting we enjoyed a lovely lunch at the distillery cafe where a delicious selection of food from local producers is served.

Next stop was the Royal Burgh of Whithorn, a small town with fascinating history. Evidence suggests that Whithorn was the location of Scotland’s first Christian Church and Scotland’s oldest Christian monument can also be found in the town. Christianity’s arrival here was attributed to the mysterious figure of St Ninian whose legacy made Whithorn a place of pilgrimage for centuries. Because of its location Whithorn came under the influence of many different cultures including the early Christian Saints, the Romans, the Anglo Saxons, the Vikings and the Gaels. In fact on our visit we learnt that Galloway means ‘land of the foreign Gaels.’ When we arrived in Whithorn we met up with Julia from the Whithorn Trust who told us of the areas history and showed us around. We visited a replica round house which was amazing, a museum and a priory. Julia and her team do an incredible job of telling Whithorn’s story to visitors but they also work really hard to get the local community involved too. There are opportunities for young adults to take up apprenticeships, which has succeeded in getting many out of the spiral of unemployment. A lot of work is also done to get local school children actively involved and engaged with history.

A short drive from Whithorn you’ll find the pretty seaside village of the Isle of Whithorn and from here you can walk along the headland to St Ninian’s cave. The Saint is thought to have retreated here but it has also been suggested that this cave could have been a hermitage, a chapel or a stone carving workshop.

Our accommodation for the evening was at Tigh na Mara, a lovely hotel located across the road from a sandy beach and only 30 minutes drive from the Mull of Galloway. We were greeted warmly by the hotel manager Neil and, much to my delight, by a little cat who seems to have made the hotel its second home. Our room was cosy and comfortable with an attractive sea view. I’m really disappointed the weather wasn’t better as I was told on a sunny day it’s absolutely stunning. The hotel’s restaurant is modern, welcoming and serves delicious food. I was starving after all the walking throughout the day so decided on a steak. I was so hungry I forgot to take any pictures of the food but I can assure you it looked and tasted delicious.

The next morning we headed for Scotland’s most southerly point, the Mull of Galloway. This spectacular headland has vertical cliffs towering almost 280 feet above the turbulent seas below. On a clear day you can see the Lake District. Northern Ireland, the Isle of Man and I’ve read reports you can even see Snowdon in Wales on an exceptionally clear day. This is also the perfect place for spotting wildlife. A variety of seabirds nest here but you can also see seals, whales, dolphins and even foxes clambering around the cliffs looking for a seabird snack. Like most headlands the Mull of Galloway has a lighthouse. Robert Stevenson built this lighthouse and it was first lit on 26th March 1830. I had such a lovely time wandering around this place and would love to come back again to explore it a little more.

Just outside Stranraer lies Castle Kennedy gardens. Upon entering the gardens you are met with the imposing ruin of Castle Kennedy itself. The surrounding gardens cover 75 acres and are described as ‘one of the showpieces of Galloway.’ On our visit we wandered through beautiful avenues of trees, walled gardens, wide expanses of lawn and along the shores of two lochs. Like many other areas of Dumfries these gardens are home to an abundance of wildlife. We spotted a hare but foxes, badgers, squirrels and even otters can be found here.

After all the walking around we were starving and very grateful that a lunch had been booked for us at Henry’s Bay House Restaurant in Stranraer. We were given a warm welcome by Jane and seated at a table overlooking the bay. The menu features a wide variety of meals which are all prepared freshly on the premises by local chef John. John sources many of his ingredients locally which is always a good sign. The food we had was delicious and beautifully presented which is always a nice touch.

After lunch we left Dumfries and Galloway and drove up into Ayrshire to our next stop, Culzean Castle which sits on a cliff top. Culzean must be one of the most opulent castles I’ve ever visited, inside the castle you’ll find rooms seeping with wealth and grandeur. There are many stunning paintings, priceless pieces of furniture and a fascinating insight into the lives of the people who once lived there. However, as a nature lover I was probably more impressed with the country park which surrounds the castle. The grounds offer forest walks, views across to Arran and the Ailsa Craig, beaches, a swan pond and a walled garden along with many more features. It’s the perfect place to visit for the whole family.

Our accommodation that evening allowed us to really experience the great outdoors. We stayed in a lovely little Glamping Pod on the Craigengillan Estate. The beautiful estate lies on the outskirts of Galloway Forest Park which is the largest in the UK. This area is also a Dark Skies Park meaning it is the perfect place for star gazing on a clear night. When we arrived it was very overcast and stargazing wasn’t looking very likely so we lit a fire and cooked dinner.

Having a little peace and quiet after a busy few days was delightful. There is no WIFI at the pods and limited signal so it really lets you switch off. We sat by the fire and talked for a couple of hours and during this time the skies slowly began to clear. By around midnight the skies were totally clear giving us a view of the Milkyway and the September Epsilon Perseids meteor shower.

After a cosy night in the pod we travelled the short distance to Loch Doon. This beautiful loch is surrounded by hills and forests and home to an array of animals. At the southern end of the loch you’ll find the remains of Loch Doon Castle. This castle dates back to the times of Robert the Bruce and it is thought that Robert’s father constructed the castle. The castle was originally located on an island in Loch Doon but was moved, stone by stone, to its current location in 1935 due to rising water levels caused by a hydroelectric scheme.

Our penultimate destination was Crawick Multiverse which sits among a picturesque landscape of rolling hills. Crawick Multiverse is a land art installation which explores the idea that ‘our universe is just one of many.’ The man behind this installation was Charles Jencks. He was commissioned by the Duke of Buccleuch to create an art installation on the grounds of an old open cast coal mine. Even though the theories behind it might seem quite ‘out there’ for a lot of people it is still a lovely place to come and explore. The site has an amphitheatre and has held couple of festivals in recent years.

Our road trip was coming to an end but there was one last place we had to visit, Scotland’s highest village, Wanlockhead. To get to the village we had to travel through the Mennock pass which was absolutely stunning and could rival any highland pass. The hillside was awash with the bonnie purple heather making the views extra beautiful as we wound our way up the road. Wanlockhead lies at the top of the pass at an elevation of 467 meters, which is around 60 meters higher than Britain highest train station on Rannoch Moor. The village is a former mining town and you can find out more about the history and enter the mines by visiting the Lead Mining Museum located in the village. Sadly, the museum was closed when we passed through but I think it would be an intriguing place to visit.

I hope you enjoyed following me along on my road trip along the SWC300. The route covers so many beautiful and captivating areas and I couldn’t recommend it enough if you are looking to get away from the crowds and enjoy what nature has to offer.

Monkstadt 1745

Eilidh Cameron June 1, 2021

I first became aware of Monkstadt 1745 at the beginning of 2021 when I was asked if I would be interested in running photography workshops from the house. Straight away I knew this offer had so much potential and I was desperate to visit the house to experience all I had read about it. Due to the pandemic this took a while but I eventually got there at the beginning of May and oh my goodness it was worth the wait. Not only is Monkstadt luxuriously beautiful it is also steeped in so much history which just makes staying there extra special.

Monkstadt is located on the Northern end of Skye. Just passed Uig, in the wee crofting village of Linicro. Anyone who has been to Skye will know that travelling through this part of the island is just spectacular. We made the journey during the soft glow of the evening light which made the landscape so photogenic. The sun was setting behind the hills of Harris as we drove down the track to Monkstadt resulting in a breathtaking sky awash with subtle but stunning colours.

Upon arrival we were shown to our room, Lady Margaret’s Suite which is the most luxurious of all the rooms at Monkstadt. I’ve been lucky to stay in some really stunning properties throughout Scotland but this one tops them all. The main feature of the room is the super king-sized fourposter bed which is as comfy as it is grand. In the bathroom, there is a large stand alone bath and a hot bubbly bath was just what I need after a long day hiking in the unpredictable island weather. So I popped open a bottle of proseco, slipped into the bath and read all about Monkstadt’s stories.

I was curious to know was where the name ‘Monkstadt’ came from. Unsurprisingly, it comes from Norse and means ‘Monks Farm.’ Straight away this heightened my curiosity and I wondered whether the building had originally been a monastery. This turns out not to be the case however, the name did come from a nearby Monastery with links to St Columba. Less than a mile North of Monkstadt lies a large meadow, if you were here during medieval times things looked rather different. Back then this area was actually a loch called ‘Loch Chaluim Chille’ which translates from Gaelic to ‘The Loch of St Columba.’ In the middle of the meadow lies an area of higher ground which back then would have been above the water. This higher land was once an island called ‘Eilean Chaluim Chille.’ The monastery was located on this ‘island.’ Only a ruckle of stones remain but a chapel and stone fort once stood here. Sadly, I never managed to visit the site on this visit but hopefully next time.

As the name suggests Monkstadt was originally a farmhouse and in the beginning belonged to the MacLeods. By the 1700’s the house fell into the hands of the MacDonald’s and became the seat of their clan chief. During their occupation at the property the MacDonald’s renovated the existing house using stones from their previous home, Duntulm Castle which is located a few miles North of Monkstadt. It must have been quite an operation moving tonnes of stone across the landscape almost 300 years ago. The story goes they moved to Monkstadt because Duntulm Castle was haunted by a variety of ghosts but it could have also been because Duntulm castle was old and sitting precariously at the edge of a cliff. You can still visit the ruins however there isn’t much of it left and the building is cordoned off because of health and safety. I’d still recommend a visit as the surrounding views are wonderful.

Monstadt has many stories, the most famous of which is probably the one where Flora MacDonald and Prince Charles Edward Stuart come to visit. This occurred while he was on the run from the government following his defeat at the battle of Culloden in 1746. Flora met the Prince when he arrived on South Uist after fleeing from capture after the battle. After much discussion it was decided that Charlie should be taken over the sea to Skye in the hope from there he would be able to board a boat and escape to the safety of France. They set sail one summer evening with Charlie disguised as an Irish maid. It didn’t take too long to cross the Minch and land on the shores of Skye, just below Monkstadt House. It was too risky for Charlie to travel to the house so Flora travelled alone. It was just as well she did as there was a group of government soldiers at the house upon her arrival. Luckily, she managed to avoid any suspicion and once the soldiers had left Lady Margaret, the lady of the house provided her with food and supplies for their onward journey. Soon after this Charlie escaped to France by boat never to set foot in Scotland again.

The decor pays tasteful homage to Charlie and the Jacobites. Many of the interiors, including the wallpaper and carpets are bespoke adding to the exclusivity of this place. The patterns are predominately made up of moths, thistles, roses and acorns which are all secret symbols of the Jacobites.

As well as the symbols you’ll find Charlie looking at you from random spots throughout the house. Even in the shower.

The MacDonald’s vacated the house at the end of the 18th century and over years neglect took its toll allowing the house to fall into disrepair. That was until the MacQueen family purchased the property in the 1980’s and slowly restored to its original glory. The owners have drawn inspiration from its history but also added a modern twist. I met the owners during my visit and it was great to hear about Monkstadt’s recent history too.

Monkstadt is truly beautiful with so many wonderful stories and I’m so excited to run my workshops from here in the future. The house’s location is so picturesque I could almost run a workshop from the grounds but there’s so much to explore on Skye it would be a shame to stick to the one area. I’ll be announcing dates later on this summer so stay tuned for more information and blogs from this trip to come.

Nature and photography, the perfect combination for health and wellbeing

Eilidh Cameron March 3, 2021

The combination of photography and nature have alway been a winning therapy for me. Being outside in the Scottish wilderness, capturing moments in time with my camera brings me joy, distraction and a sense of satisfaction amongst other glorious emotions. I’m currently in the process of creating landscape photography retreats to share my love of photography and nature with others. Not only will participants learn and hone their photography skills but also experience the exhilaration of exploring new places and witnessing beautiful scenes. They’ll fill their lungs with fresh Scottish air and hopefully spot some wildlife. All of which are fantastic for our mental and physical health.

There are many theories which address the relationship between health, wellbeing and nature but I find the Attention Restoration Theory by Rachel and Stephen Kaplan the most engaging. As with all scientific theories it’s pretty complicated but put simply the theory suggests that mental wellbeing can be hampered by direct attention and improved by indirect attention. Direct attention refers to everyday life and tasks that we are forced to do which can cause us stress and mental fatigue. For example tasks at work, general stressful events in daily life or trying to write an intellectual blog when your articulation and intelligence are questionable.. I’m joking.. sort of. Indirect attention refers to when our brain easily and naturally focuses on something like a spectacular sunset, a pretty flower or anything fluffy and cute. During this time our brain restores and recharges resulting in us feeling happier and less stressed. Creative processes, like photography, have been proven to have the same effect on the brain. I’ve often heard that a creative activity helps the brain flow better which I imagine refers back to indirect attention and again soothes the brain.

I experienced the benefits of indirect attention just the other day. All day I had been undertaking laborious tasks and on top of that my boyfriend was heading back to work at sea for two weeks. Overall I was feeling pretty stressed and down. At around 5.30pm I happened to glance out the window and discover the sky to the north was bright pink and a rainbow was developing. I grabbed the camera and legged it out the house, I then proceeded to tear about Tobermory like an absolute lunatic trying to find the best composition. I got the shot and the rainbow which developed was the most beautiful I’d ever seen. I was buzzing, the anxiety was diminished and on top of that I felt a sense of achievement from capturing that moment and privilege of witnessing such a sight.

Encountering wildlife is another great way to get the endorphins flowing. Otters are the holy grail for me but honestly any wildlife will create a wonderful emotional response, I don’t even need to capture the animal with my camera, just watching helps me feel better. This feeling is wonderfully summed up in an essay called, Wildlife tourism: The intangible, psychological benefits of human-wildlife encounters. ‘Nature’s design, performance and immense biodiversity initiate an emotional response of awe, wonder and privilege… There is time to stand and stare, and contemplate…whereby participants are totally absorbed in the spectacle.’ I can completely relate to this, I’ve lost track of the amount of times I’ve been lying face down on soggy seaweed in the pouring rain and not giving a damn about the conditions while watching otters. 90% of the time I’ve not captured the shot I was looking for but it didn’t matter as I was completely absorbed in the spectacle.

And you don’t have to be in the wilderness, climbing hills and watching otters to experience the benefits of nature and photography. At this time of year the city parks are bursting with colour. Beds of yellow daffodils, a colour associated with energy levels, happiness and mental activity, are probably more plentiful in the city than in the country. Then late April and May bring the sweet smelling seas of bluebells. As well as being pretty, flowers are great fun to photograph and a great way to play around with aperture and depth of field.

However, if you can get into the wilderness the advantages are outstanding. Climbing, even a small hill, to watch and capture a sunset is a feeling I can’t quite put into words.

In my photography retreats I hope to encompass everything I’ve talked about in this blog. I want to take you on an adventure in my favourite parts of Scotland and help you to capture beautiful moments along with helping you to relax and reap the benefits of connecting with nature. We’ll walk, talk, explore and even try a bit of wild swimming if you fancy it. Everything will be very relaxed and we’ll just go with the natural flow of each day. I’m creating these retreats as I want to share something, that has basically been a life saver for me, with others. But don’t just take my word for it, there is so much science supporting the health benefits of nature and creative processes. I would highly recommend reading the Attention Restoration Theory.

Everything is still in the planning stage at the moment and obviously Covid dependant but I hope to have everything finalised in the next couple of months. I’ve secured a couple of beautiful venues already which is really exciting. For more information or to express any interest please get in touch via my contact page.

Touring Argyll

Eilidh Cameron February 4, 2020

This blog is in partnership with the The Scottish Caravan, Motorhome & Holiday Home Show. I’ve been invited to attend the show which is on at the SECC, Glasgow between Thursday the 6th of February and Sunday the 9th. This is the biggest show of it’s kind in Scotland and the perfect event to attend if you’re planning an adventurous trip around Scotland. I’ve always wanted a camper van, for a photographer a camper van would be perfect. I could just park up somewhere and wake up at a sunset location instead of getting up at stupid o’clock. The freedom would be fantastic! The show isn’t only exhibiting campervans and motorhomes, there will also be lodges, tents and even boats on display. My boyfriends eyes lit up when I told him this, being from an island boats are life. There will also be a farmers market with a selection of local products from all over Scotland to sample.

So to give you some inspiration for a great Scottish getaway here are my top five places to visit. They are all in Argyll as in my totally biased opinion Argyll is the best part of Scotland. This area is also relatively undiscovered by the masses which is also an advantage.

NO.5 Saligo Bay, Islay.

Islay, Queen of the Hebrides and home of my maternal family has much more to offer than just whisky, although that is pretty good too. Islay is home too a variety of wildlife, fascinating history (Finlaggan was home to the Lord’s of the Isle’s) and wildly beautiful beaches which are my personal favourite part of Islay. The west coast beaches are world class, with steep dunes, golden sands and never ending horizons. I love heading over to Saligo Bay on summer evenings to photograph the sunset. There is very rarely anyone else around which is wonderful. I’ve always thought that the machir land above the beach would be a perfect place to camp or park up a motorhome. Ending the day with a glass or two of wine with the soothing sound of the Atlantic below would be my ideal of perfection.

It’s worth noting that the roads on Islay, like in most of rural Argyll, are single track so it’s important to know how to drive them safely and courteously. Even more so if you are travelling in a larger vehicle like a motorhome. The Scottish Caravan, Motorhome & Holiday Home Show offers manoeuvring and towing sessions so I would say it would be worth popping along for this alone if you are new to touring.

NO.4 Kilmartin Glen

This small glen has one of the riches neolithic and Bronze Age landscapes you’ll find in mainland Britain. There are over 800 ancient monument which stretch back over 5000 years. The monuments include Standing Stones, Burial Cairns and Rock Art. The best examples of standing stones can be found at Nether Largie and Ballymeanoch. I live around 10 minutes drive from these stones so have visited many times but they never fail to arouse my curiosity; who made them? Why did they position them here? How did they move such large lumps of stone? They are also fantastic to photograph, last winter I managed to capture the stones with the Northern Lights dancing above.

You’ll also find Dunadd Fort in Kilmartin Glen, this rocky mound is a distinct feature in the otherwise flat glen as it rises above Moine Mhor. This hill has 2000 years of human history but is probably best known for being the powerhouse of the first Gaelic Kings of Dalriada. At the top of the hill you’ll find a stab of rock with a human footprint carved into the stone. It is thought that this is where the Kings placed their foot when they were inaugurated.

NO.3 Westport Beach

Westport beach is arguably the best beach on mainland Argyll and the drive down is equally spectacular. The beach stretches for 6 glorious sandy miles at the southern end of the Kintyre Peninsula. Dunes line the beach and among the dunes at the southern tip of the beach you’ll find Machrihanish golf course. Apparently this course has the best opening hole in the world. I can’t confirm or deny this as I know nothing about golf but I can tell you it’s very, very pretty. Anyway getting back to the beach itself. You’ll easily spot the Hebridean islands of Jura, Islay, Gigha and even Northern Ireland on a clear day. The beach also offers the best views of the Mull of Kintyre immortalised by Paul McCartney and Wings.

During the summer months surfers flock to Westport beach to ride the Atlantic rollers which sweep in on westerly winds. I don’t surf but the waves are one of my favourite features of the beach. They are great to watch and I always feel invigorated after being by the sea. It’s worth noting that Westport isn’t a safe beach to swim at, there are very strong undercurrents and the additional risk of getting washed against the rocks. But it’s a great place for a walk, a paddle and to watch the sunset.

NO.2 The Knapdale Peninsula

The Knapdale Peninsula is where I spend the majority of my time photographing and searching for wildlife. In fact I could write an entire essay on this part of the county however I will condense things down as much as possible for this blog. The peninsula’s main attractions are the spectacular scenery, rich variety of wildlife and the hidden remains from the past. The scenery is easy to see with sweeping vistas across to the Hebrides, quiet beaches, dense forests and pretty wee lochs. My personal favourite locations are Kilmory beach and the Dunardry forest trails.

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You’ll have to look a wee bit harder to spot wildlife but with silence and patience you are usually rewarded. The big five can be found here which are otters, red deer, red squirrels, seals and golden eagles. I’ve seen all at various times but have a lack of photographic evidence to prove this. Basically I need a bigger lens, anyway I digress. In 2009 Knapdale was at the heart of the beaver reintroduction project which was extremely successful and there are now a healthy populations of beavers in the area.

Remains of the past are scattered all over the Knapdale peninsula. The ancient chapels of Kilmory and Keils are the guardians of medieval stone carvings. Hidden among hills and woods you’ll also find haunting ruins like those at Archionan. The villagers of this small township were forced from their homes during the clearances but not without putting up a fight and causing a riot. Another ruin which is definitely worth visiting is Castle Sween, this is thought to be the oldest castle on mainland Scotland. This castle was once the strong hold of the MacDonald Lord of the Isles and is conveniently right beside a caravan park off the same name.

NO.1 The Ross of Mull

The entire island of Mull is striking but the south of the island is extra special. The mountain and coastal views are breathtaking and there is an abundance of wildlife however by favourite part of this area is the hidden coves and beaches. On a summers day there is nowhere else I’d rather be.

Of all the beaches Traigh Bhan Na Sgurra and Traigh na Margaidh are the most beautiful. They are completely hidden away from the world and very rarely visited. This may be because they are challenging to get to, there is a lot of clambering and traversing over rough ground but it you are fit and competent it’s absolutely worth the effort. Every summer Simon and I say we are going to camp on one of these beaches. Cooking up a wee barbecue of freshly caught fish, sitting cider while the sun sets and falling asleep to the waves sounds like heaven. Annoyingly we have not yet done so but I hope this year will be the year. We can maybe pick up some camping equipment while at the caravan show this week.

I hope you have enjoyed my guide to touring around Argyll and that it has given you some inspiration for your next adventure. I’m heading to The Scottish Caravan, Motorhome & Holiday Home Show this Thursday to see what’s on offer and to get some ideas for our next adventure. I’ll be posting what I get up to on the day on my Instagram account so please follow along if you are interested. If you’d like to attend the Scottish Caravan, Motorhome and Holiday Home show then book your tickets online at https://www.caravanshowscotland.com/book-tickets.

Venturing West to the Corryvreckan

Eilidh Cameron February 1, 2020

Did you know that world’s third largest whirlpool lurks just off mainland Argyll? it lies between the islands of Jura and Scarba to be precise. As the crow flies, my house is probably around 12 miles from the Corryvreckan so I’ve always been aware of this monster sitting just off shore. I’ve seen the stretch of water many times from the shore, seen the mighty waves crashing through the channel using binoculars and even heard it’s roar while hiking in the coastal hills but up until last summer I had never visited the whirlpool itself. You see I have a fear of boats and deep water so the thought of sailing into one of the worlds most turbulent stretches of water didn’t bare thinking about. However last summer, during a very calm spell, I decided to take the plunge and book a trip to the Corryvreckan with Venture West. I also took my Dad along with me for moral support.

We boarded the boat at Crinan harbour, sailing out into the Sound of Jura. It was an exceptional day, by 9.30am the temperature was already into the low 20’s and there was not a breathe of wind. This calmed my nerves a wee bit as the sea was like a glass.

We quickly arrived at a small cluster of rocks collectively known as the Garbh Reisa. Straight away we could feel a lot more movement in the water and small whirlpools were now surrounding the boat. . This is because a tidal race called the Dorus Mòr (great door) runs past these islands. Even on such a calm day the power of the current here was evident. The islands are also home to a variety of seabirds and a few curious seals.

Next we headed towards Jura, visiting a beautiful little inlet which is home to dozens of seals. Seals are a common sight around the west coast but usually they are seen looking a bit cumbersome on land where as here we watched them swimming gracefully through the shallow waters.

Next it was time for the main event, sailing through the Corryvreckan. At this point I was pretty nervous but realistically I knew nothing was going to happen as it was a calm day and Sandy, owner of Venture West, is a very experienced skipper. At the entrance to the channel it was pretty calm with incredible views. A multitude of islands could be seen including Mull. However the further we travelled into the channel the sea began to boil up, I say boil as with all the little whirlpools it looked like water boiling in a cauldron.

The turbulent waters of the Corryvreckan are down to the geographical positioning of the islands in relation to the mainland. The whirlpool is particularly active during the times when the tide is in flood. A large amount of water if sucked up through the relatively narrow Sound of Jura which is then compressed even further as it rushes through this small gap between Scarba and Jura. Add to this a seabed which is irregular with reefs, humps, bumps, a deep hole which then rises to a giant pinnacle and you have the perfect storm. During spring tides the water can rush through here at up to 10 knots and during strong westerly winds waves can top 15 feet high. Which would be amazing to see.. from land.

We spent quite a long time here, Sandy would switch the engine off temporarily and the boat would get dragged around by the tide. As we exited the Sound of Corryvreckan at the western side my dad spotted a pod of porpoises which was very exciting. Mia, who works on the boat, explained that this area is a haven for sea mammal like porpoises as the turbulent waters create rich feeding grounds. Dolphins are regularly spotted on these trips and some lucky beggars even catch the sight of whales.

We then sailed out the Sound of Corryvreckan, travelling around the west side of Scarba which provided stunning views to the Isle of Mull. If i’m honest the calm waters here were a welcome relief after spending time bobbing about in the whirlpool.

On our return to Crinan we passed through a small channel at the north end of Scarba called The Grey Dogs. This can apparently be almost as wild as the Corryvreckan if the conditions are right. On this day it was pretty calm with just a slight disturbance in the water. Unfortunately I don’t have any usable pictures of this part of the trip, somehow I managed to capture every shot out of focus.

As we cruised past the east side of Scarba we had an incredible wildlife sighting. At the top of a tall tree a young eagle was stretching it’s wings in preparation for flight. The size of these birds is incredible, even as a nestling. The experience soon got even better as one of the parents flew to the nest with lunch before quickly taking off again to perch on one of the sea cliffs.

After all that excitement it was time to head home. I’m so glad I picked up the courage to take this trip as it was such an incredible experience and encapsulates what Argyll has to offer. If you are spending any time in Argyll and looking for something to do I would absolutely recommend taking a trip out with Venture West especially since this is the year of West Coast Waters. You might not get weather like we had but if your sea legs are a bit better than mine a trip on a wilder day might be an even more exciting experience.

I would just like to add that this trip was not sponsored in any way, I paid for it out of my own pocket. :)

My top 8 Wedding Photographs

Eilidh Cameron January 7, 2020

I love a wedding, ask my friends, as soon as they’re in a new relationship I’m planning their wedding. I love the dresses, the flowers, the decorations, the dancing and just the whole happy and celebratory atmosphere. And it’ll come as no surprise that I have a very elaborate Pinterest board for my own imaginary wedding (but not in a creepy way, I have a boyfriend but just don’t tell him about my Pinterest board.) My fondness of weddings is not a new thing, when I was 3 I wandered into my mums room in a white shawl and announced I was going to marry my Grandpa.

The introduction to this blog would suggest that I always dreamed about being a wedding photographer but I really didn’t. As little as 4 years ago I wanted to avoid wedding photography altogether. At this point my idea of wedding photography was cheesy, posed boring images lit with artificial lighting and I just don’t enjoy capturing this style of imagery. However, in recent years I began to notice a change in the style of wedding photography, stunning natural images of happy and relaxed couples started to grab my attention. During this time local photographer Bill Baille, who’s shots are relaxed, asked if I would like to assist him while photographing a wedding at Lunga. It was an unpaid job but I wanted the experience so I agreed and I’m so glad I did as I was instantly hooked. I loved capturing the special moments that occurred throughout the day. I’m not going to lie, shooting a wedding is extremely stressful but it’s an exciting kind of stressful! I get such a buzz from the challenge and when I capture these special moments it’s a wonderful feeling.

So I thought I would share with you my top 8 wedding photographs which I’ve captured in the last 2 years..

No.8 The Kiss

Katie and Ross were the first couple I photographed with Bill at Lunga House. Their ‘you may kiss the bride’ moment remains one of my favourite images. While Bill was working close to the couple I was at the back of the garden hiding in a bush with a telephoto lens.

No.7 Mother and Son

I’ve known Maggie for years so when I was asked to photograph her wedding to Donald on Easdale I was delighted. This special moment between Maggie and her son Jordan was captured while Donald was telling the guests just how wonderful she was.

NO.6 A crying Groom

Now I flippin’ love a crying Groom so I was delighted when I saw Ryan lose it when he first saw beautiful Roma walk down the aisle at Crear this summer.

NO.5 Throwing the Groom

From a crying groom to a flying groom. John’ s shinty playing brothers decided to throw him in the air. Well they didn’t manage to throw him that high but it still made a fun photograph with fantastic expressions.

NO.4 Disabled toilet selfie.

Ruth and the girls always take a selfie in the disabled toilets of The George on a night out so it had to be done on her wedding night too. I guess this goes to show that posed photos can be fun.

NO.3 The Confetti Shot

Andrew and Lucy got married just before Christmas so lighting was always going to be a challenge but I think the bleakness of the day made their ‘snow confetti’ shot all the better.

NO.2 The childhood sweethearts

I was a bridesmaid at Ruth and Thomas’s wedding but I couldn’t leave the camera at home. Their expressions in this photograph just makes me so happy.

NO.1 The rainy day

My favourite image just goes to show you that a bit of rain won’t ruin your wedding day. In fact, it can make your photographs all the more beautiful. Amy and Robert were just the perfect couple, not only stunning on the outside but such kind people too. Their love for each other and joy made capturing their wedding day a dream.

I’ve still got a few spaces available in 2020 so if you would like your day captured in a personal and relaxed way please get in touch and we can have a wee chat.

VisitAberdeenshire

Eilidh Cameron August 9, 2019

A few weeks ago we crossed the country, heading East to Aberdeenshire with VisitAberdeenshire. It’s a part of Scotland I’ve rarely visited so I didn’t really know what to expect which made the trip all the more exciting. Over the four day trip we discovered a region steeped in history, edged with a spectacular coastline and with some of the cutest villages you’ll find anywhere.

From Lochgilphead to the city of Aberdeen takes around 5 hours but it was a stunning drive in the hot July sunshine. Watching the landscape change with every passing mile was wonderful, Scotland really is such a diverse country. We left the rugged landscape of the west, passed by the rolling hills of central Scotland before emerging into the arable landscape of the East coast.

Aberdeen tends to have this reputation of being a grey, dull city which I think is largely due to the majority of the buildings being granite. However, even though grey these buildings are striking with many featuring aspects of Gothic Architecture. Marischal College is particularly impressive. As you wander through the streets and lanes of Aberdeen you’ll find something equally impressive, street art. Aberdeen is home to an international public arts festival called NUART. There are dozens of painting located all over the cities walls which range in size, colour and style.

Since it’s early days Aberdeen has been dependant on the sea, in fact the first people settled here because of the proximity to the water. Over hundreds of years Aberdeen has been associated with every form of Martine industry imaginable. From shipbuilding to fishing to the whale oil industry of the past and oil industry of the present, Aberdeen has seen it all. We visited the Aberdeen Maritime Museum located in the historic Shiprow which gives a fascinating insight into this extensive maritime history.

At the bottom of Aberdeen, beside the beach you’ll come to a charming wee former fishing village called Footdee. It’s one of the cutest villages I’ve ever seen, it’s all built in squares, it actually feels like stepping into a film set. There are cottages of all different shapes, colours and sizes and the gardens are full of flowers and quirky signs and ornaments.

Foodee isn’t the only charming fishing village in Aberdeen, this area is littered with quaint villages. After Aberdeen he headed North to the Banffshire Coast where we discovered Portsoy. It has the most beautiful 17th century harbour which even has a nice wee sandy beach. Again, the weather was stunning so we sat in the sun, ate some of Portsoy’s award winning ice cream and watched a couple of Minke Whales pass by.

Just east of Portsoy, settled amongst the cliff, lies another beautiful fishing villages called Crovie. I think this was my favourite. There is no vehicle access to the town so it’ll really like stepping back in time as you wander along the front weaving in and out the washing lines. On our visit the sea was calm but in a winter storm living here must be pretty scary as the houses are just feet away from the sea.

Travel another couple of miles east and you’ll come to a similar town called Pennan.It’s not quite as charming as Crovie as there are cars and shops but it’s still nice. The film Local Hero was filmed here in the 80’s which makes it extra special. You’ll be able to step inside that famous phone box.

It’s not only quint villages that Aberdeenshire has in abundance, it also has some fantastic castles. 263 to be precise and on our trip we managed to visit a couple. Dalgatie Castle was the first one we visited which is home to the Clan Hay. A castle has been located here since around 1050AD but the one you see today was constructed during the 16th century. There is so much to see in the castle, including Mary Queen of Scots bedchamber. This prominent Scottish figure stayed here for a few nights after the Battle of Corrachie in 1562. If you visit the castle make sure you go to the Laird’s Kitchen, the cakes are INCREDIBLE!!

On the same day we visited Duff House which is technically not a castle but I think it falls under the same category. Relatively speaking this house is fairly new, being built in the 18th Century but it has amassed a lot of history in that time. The owner and the architect had a major fall out, it has been used as a stately home and a hotel but also as a sanitarium, an internment camp and a prisoner of war camp. The building houses some incredible artwork including a £10 million ‘El Greco.’ At the time of our visit Duff House had a ‘Romantic Scotland’ exhibition running which includes the works of great Scottish artists like Horatio McCulloch.

On the third day of our trip we visited a very unique castle. Kinnaird Head Castle is located in Fraserburgh, the castle was converted into Scotland’s very first mainland lighthouse in 1787. We were given a tour of the lighthouse and taken up to the room where the lighthouse keeper operated the light. It was absolutely fascinating, I would thoroughly recommend a visit if you are in the area! Beside the lighthouse you’ll find The Museum of Scottish Lighthouses which tells the story of Scottish Lighthouses and their keepers.

Ruined castles are plentiful here, the most famous being Dunnottar. It’s understandable why this castle is so popular. The location is incredibly dramatic, like something out of a Hollywood film. It sits out on rugged cliff, only accessible by a dramatic stair case. This rugged cliff top must hold some amazing stories. There has been a settlement here since Pictish times and the now empty ruins of Dunnottar once hosted legendary figures like William Wallace and Mary Queen of Scots.

If you like spooky places then Slains Castle is the places to go. Since it was abandoned in the 1920’s it’s been left to nature which has left the building looking a wee bit battered. Situated right on the cliffs it’s fully open to the elements of the North Sea. There is something about the building which is incredibly eerie, I’m assuming it has always had the feel to it even during it’s heyday as Bram Stoker used it as inspiration when writing Dracula.

We visited so many incredibly places on our trip but without a doubt my favourite location was The Bullers of Buchan. The coastline right along this stretch is spectacular but here it’s extra special. There is a circular chasm that plummets unnervingly far down to the sea below. This feature was formed when a large sea cave collapsed after millennia of erosion by the fearsome North Sea. The turbulent waters rush into this hollow through a natural sea arch. This whole area consists of perilous sea cliffs which are home to literally thousands of sea birds. I’ve honestly never seen sea bird colonies on such a grand scale. When visiting here it’s important to be extremely careful. There are sheer drops from the tops of the cliffs, the foot paths are rough and there are no safety barriers. I would advise avoiding this area with young children or if you are not confident in the outdoors. However if you are confident and up for a challenge it’s worth it.

As mentioned the cliffs are home to thousands of sea birds including everyones favourites, Puffins. Having never seen a puffin before I was so excited to see them flapping around and with a bit of careful negotiating we got pretty close. I’m just going to leave you with a selection of images from that joyous afternoon.

If you are a bit of a ‘twitcher’ another great place to visit is the St Cyrus nature reserve which is home to a wide variety of birdlife as well as butterflies and other insects. Unfortunately we didn’t get to visit the reserve as I tore a tendon in my knee and was able to walk to it but from photographs online it looks beautiful.

During our stay in Aberdeenshire we stayed in some beautiful accommodation. In Aberdeen itself we stayed at Skene House Hotel which was in a really central location and ate at Howies which was only a 10 minute walk away. On our second evening we stayed and ate in the Knowes Hotel in Macduff. This hotel sat on a hill over looking the Banffshire Coast and out to sea. The food in the restaurant was delicious and the waiting staff were so lovely which made our stay extra special!. On the final night we stayed in the MaryCulter house which sits on the banks of the River Dee. This place is really stunning and has an incredible history, parts of the building date back to the time of the Knights Templar.